In the first interview of our China Insiders business series, Stewart Lee Beck spoke with Douglas Chew, Senior Vice President Fashion & Home Creative with Li & Fung Asia about his approach to the China fashion market, finding balance and his passion for laksa.
Let’s start with advice for entrepreneurs, someone who’s thinking: “I’ll start my own business, or I’ll freelance…” What does someone like that need to know first and foremost?
Coming into China to start your own business, the first thing I think you need to do is localize yourself. Localize your brand and products because China is huge. You need to know what the markets want: the tier 1, 2 & 3 cities and beyond. Whatever you want to sell, someone is already selling it here, so you’ve got to make sure your product is very attractive to the Chinese.
For entrepreneurs coming into China, everyone wants to get a piece of the pie. Don’t come in here cocky. Even if you have the best product, if you plan to manufacture it here make sure you find a very good person or factory you can trust, otherwise it will be in the market within weeks. You need to really get into the minds of how people think here.
“You need to really get into the minds of how people think here.”
You’ve been in China for 13 years. What’s the biggest difference doing business here?
Everything is negotiable. Never ever take no for an answer. If company A can’t do it, company B will. So always smile. Smile when it is negative. Smile when it is positive. Never show defeat. Always show confidence. In China anything is possible. You need good contacts, people who can point you in the right directions.
How does your current creative work with Li & Fung differ from your previous haute couture experience?
I used to design $20,000 evening dresses where one button might cost more than an entire outfit. With Li & Fung I’m focused on bringing the best design and innovation to the China kids’ market. Brand building here is key. I really enjoy the challenge of taking something perceived as generic and adding value, making it relevant to the kids and parents in the China market.
How do you see mainstream fashion evolving in China?
I seriously think the future of fashion is … people want efficiency, they want fast, they want convenience. The whole country works in a nanosecond. Everything is like now now now now. I want it yesterday. If you can afford a 37RMB Starbucks then a 29RMB T-shirt is nothing. What I’m wearing is basic Uniqlo, something I want to wear and next season it just doesn’t work anymore, so it’s pajamas.
How do you find balance in a fast-paced China life?
I think Buddhism is a really easy religion. It teaches you about patience. I mean you deal with crappy people and you just want to kill them then you think, “Better not…I will be reincarnated as a cockroach in the next life.” I think it’s something that makes us more human.
“Anywhere in the world, if you speak the language, you connect better.”
Do you have to speak Mandarin to succeed in China?
A lot of people come here and think “I don’t need the language” but I think that’s a big mistake. Anywhere in the world, if you speak the language, you connect better. They’ll respect that you’re actually taking the trouble to learn the language, so you mean business. Culturally, a lot is lost through translation. Also you tend to form better guānxi (relationships) with people when you learn their language. So try to speak as much as possible. I can speak, but I can’t read or write, it’s just too much. My first six months here, I watched a lot of television which helped. Make sure you get a damn good translator or assistant.
Can you tell us about your love for laksa?
If you’ve been to Malaysia (Doug’s home) laksa is like breakfast, lunch or dinner or whenever you want it. Cooking it takes a couple of hours, it’s a wonderful, full of flavor, oomph of a dish. For me, I do an 3-minute deluxe version with instant noodles. I think cooking brings back an emotional connection. Just like sometimes music brings back memories, food brings back memories.
One word to best describe China?
(pause) Noodles.
You didn’t have to say that.
I mean I love noodles, so for me I’m happy here. I’ve always wanted to do a noodle concept restaurant because Chinese love noodles. Who doesn’t love noodles?
Thanks Doug.
